I’m always on the lookout for hidden gems—those lesser-known destinations that offer a unique blend of beauty, culture, and adventure. This time, my travels took me to a sparkling jewel in the Caribbean Sea: the Guadeloupe Islands. Known for its stunning natural scenery and rich cultural heritage, this French overseas territory in the Caribbean is a paradise for travelers. However, while most visitors flock to the main island of Guadeloupe, they often overlook the smaller, more secluded islands nearby—particularly the beautiful Les Saintes archipelago.
I’ll take you on a journey from the main island of Guadeloupe to Les Saintes. We’ll explore the charming Terre-de-Haut Island, with a special focus on the historic Fort Napoléon. I’ll also share the best places to stay on the island, ensuring you have a memorable and relaxing experience in this serene haven.
An Overview of the Guadeloupe Islands
The Guadeloupe Islands are a French overseas region located in the eastern Caribbean Sea. The archipelago consists of several islands, with the main island resembling the shape of a butterfly, divided into two parts: Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre. Known for its beautiful beaches, lush rainforests, and unique blend of French and Caribbean culture, Guadeloupe is a popular destination for tourists. However, beyond the main island, there are hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, and one of the most remarkable is the Les Saintes archipelago.
The Journey to Les Saintes
During my travels in Guadeloupe, I decided to venture from the main island to explore Les Saintes. This small group of islands, particularly the two most famous ones—Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas—are known for their tranquil atmosphere, crystal-clear waters, and well-preserved French colonial charm.
1. Departing from Guadeloupe Island
To reach Les Saintes, you can take a ferry from Trois-Rivières, a port on the southern coast of Basse-Terre, the western part of the butterfly-shaped main island. Trois-Rivières is one of the most convenient departure points for visiting Les Saintes. In the morning, I left my hotel in Basse-Terre and drove along the winding coastal road to Trois-Rivières, enjoying the beautiful scenery along the way. After about 30 minutes, I arrived at this small yet bustling port.
Ferry tickets can be purchased online in advance or directly at the port. Given that Les Saintes is less well-known than the main island, the ferry wasn’t crowded, and I felt relaxed as I boarded. The ferry ride to Terre-de-Haut takes about 30 to 40 minutes. Though short, the journey was very pleasant. I stood on the deck, breathing in the fresh sea air as the silhouette of the approaching island came into view against the azure sea.
First Impressions of Terre-de-Haut
2. Arriving at Terre-de-Haut Island
As the ferry approached the dock at Terre-de-Haut, the first thing that struck me was the colorful little town. The island is small, with its main town located in the northern part. Stepping off the dock, I immediately felt the relaxed atmosphere. Unlike the bustling main island of Guadeloupe, Terre-de-Haut exudes a sense of calm and tranquility. The streets are lined with vibrant French-style houses, giving the impression that time has stood still here.
The town’s central area is compact, and most places are within walking distance. The streets are nearly devoid of cars, with only a few locals riding bicycles or scooters. This peaceful, slow-paced lifestyle quickly won me over.
Visiting Fort Napoléon
3. The History and Spectacular Views of Fort Napoléon
One of the must-visit historical sites on Terre-de-Haut is Fort Napoléon. Perched on the highest point of the town, this fortress offers a panoramic view of the island and the surrounding sea. Fort Napoléon was built by the French in the early 19th century to defend against pirates and invaders in the Caribbean. Today, it is not only a historical monument but also a museum showcasing the island’s rich history and natural heritage.
It takes about 20 minutes to walk from the town center to Fort Napoléon. The winding path gradually ascends, offering increasingly breathtaking views as you approach the top. Standing on the fortress walls, I could see the entire island of Terre-de-Haut, with the vast blue sea and distant mountains forming a stunning backdrop.
Inside the fortress, exhibits detail the historical background of the fort and the significant events that took place on the island. I was particularly fascinated by the botanical garden within the fort, which features many local plant species, including some that thrive in dry conditions. Strolling through this garden, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility, enhanced by the stunning views from the fortress walls.
Unique Accommodations on Les Saintes
4. Where to Stay on Terre-de-Haut
When it comes to accommodations on Terre-de-Haut, you’ll find that most hotels and guesthouses are small and family-run, offering a charming and authentic local experience. Although the options aren’t as varied as in a big city, the lodgings here have their own unique appeal.
Les Petits Saints Hotel
After comparing several options, I chose Les Petits Saints Hotel, located on a hillside on the island. The hotel is nestled in a quiet area, with balconies overlooking the entire bay. The rooms are cozy and decorated with a blend of Caribbean and French elements. I particularly enjoyed having breakfast on the balcony in the morning, listening to the birds chirping while admiring the distant sea view. This kind of leisurely time is a rare treat, especially after living in the fast-paced city.
Auberge Les Saintes en Mer
Another charming accommodation option I discovered was Auberge Les Saintes en Mer. This seaside inn is located on the southern edge of town, just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. Although the rooms are simple, they are clean and comfortable, with a small balcony outside each room adorned with colorful hammocks. Here, I could feel the gentle sea breeze and listen to the soothing sound of the waves lapping the shore. The inn’s owner was very friendly and served a fresh French breakfast each morning, including crispy baguettes and rich coffee.
Gîte La Trace des Caps
For those who prefer a more independent and private stay, Gîte La Trace des Caps is an excellent choice. This cottage is hidden in the woods, surrounded by lush tropical plants, making you feel like you’re in the heart of nature. There’s no city noise here—just the sounds of nature to keep you company. At night, I would sit on the terrace of the cottage, stargazing and enjoying the serenity and beauty of this place.
Food and Leisure Activities on the Island
5. Exploring the Local Cuisine
In addition to the stunning scenery, another highlight of the island is its food. Les Saintes is known for its unique culinary culture, blending French and Caribbean flavors to create a new and exciting dining experience.
I highly recommend a small seaside restaurant called Ti Kaz’ La, which serves fresh seafood and authentic French cuisine. The restaurant’s signature dish is a seafood platter featuring freshly caught local lobster, which is both delicious and generously portioned. Paired with a glass of locally-produced rum, this is an unmissable culinary experience.
End of the Journey: Returning to Guadeloupe Island
6. Saying Goodbye to Les Saintes
After a few days of exploration and relaxation, it was finally time to leave this enchanting island and return to Guadeloupe. Boarding the ferry again, I stood on the deck, gazing at the slowly receding Les Saintes archipelago with a heavy heart. Although the trip was short, it allowed me to experience a sense of isolation and purity, as if my soul had been completely relaxed and cleansed.
Back at Trois-Rivières port, the bright sunshine and bustling port formed a stark contrast to the tranquility of Les Saintes. On the drive back to Basse-Terre, I couldn’t help but reminisce about the past few days: the vibrant little town, the magnificent seascapes, the historic Fort Napoléon, and the deep blue waters. These beautiful memories will forever remain in my heart as an unforgettable part of my travel experiences.
The Unique Charm of Les Saintes
Les Saintes is a place far removed from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, filled with natural beauty and historical charm. Here, you can stroll through peaceful town streets, explore historical sites, immerse yourself in stunning natural landscapes, savor unique local cuisine, and enjoy various water activities. Whether you seek relaxation or adventure, Les Saintes has something to offer.
If you ever find yourself on the Guadeloupe Islands, take a few days to visit Les Saintes. This hidden gem may not have the glamour of a big city, but its unique charm will leave every traveler who sets foot on this land spellbound. I hope this article has provided you with some inspiration to discover more beautiful and distinctive destinations in your future travels.